Wine and grapes may not be part of their everyday classroom discussions, but two Sweet Briar College scientists are channeling their curiosity and academic resources into a shared passion: the history of the Norton wine grape.
The research findings of Rebecca Ambers and her husband, Clifford Ambers, on the increasingly popular American grape are featured in the cover story of American Wine Society Journal's fall 2004 edition.
Because of its highly resilient vine and ability to produce a pleasant-tasting red wine, the Norton is rapidly gaining ground in the burgeoning southeastern U.S. wine production industry. The Norton's resiliency appeals to growers who are looking to reduce use of pesticide sprays and produce certified organic grapes.
Rebecca Ambers, SBC assistant professor of environmental studies, and Clifford Ambers, visiting assistant professor of environmental science, are both geologists with a variety of outside interests. Rebecca researches the impact of historical agricultural practices on soil and streams when not dabbling in Virginia wine history. Clifford is a longtime winemaker who hopes to turn the vineyard he planted on the couple's Amherst County property into a licensed farm winery specializing in unique grape wines.
For the AWSJ article, the couple reached beyond their fields of expertise to create a lovingly detailed history of Dr. Daniel Norborne Norton, who developed the grape at his Richmond farm in the 1820s. By the late 19th century, it was flourishing in the form of famous Virginia Claret Wine made by the Monticello Wine Company near Charlottesville.
For the journal cover, Clifford Ambers recreated a scene from the 1820s that featured Norton grapes in an openwork Canton fruit bowl. The grapes are presented as they might have looked when Norton presented his first perfected bunches to neighbor Clara Walker Haxall, who gave them the enduring tag of "Norton's Seedling."
Beyond such tidbits, the Norton's origins have been clouded with conflicting stories dating back to the Civil War. The couple's research cuts through much of this confusion. Among their key discoveries is that the Norton sprung from crossing a wild grape species with a cultivated variety that was itself a cross of two types. The grape's "wild" American genes make it hardy and disease resistant, while its appealing flavors contrast with the unpleasant taste of most native varieties.
The couple's interest in Norton began with Clifford's grape-breeding experiments at their Chateau Z Vineyard. HHis goal is to nurture grapes better suited to the humid Virginia climate than the more fashionable but harder-to-cultivate European varieties. The project is also fueled by the couple's desire to expand their knowledge and share information with others.
"We figured we're both expert learners, so why can't geologists dabble in human history for a change? We can do this!" Clifford Ambers said of their initial approach. "Working together, we contributed different skills to the project. That's what the fun of it was."
When the couple delved into research last summer, they found a plethora of information on Dr. Norton - including letters, property deeds, and insurance policies - from the University of Virginia archives, the Library of Virginia, and online sources. They also perused secondary sources such as Richmond history articles, horticulture journals, and books on wine and grape varieties.
One of their more astonishing discoveries was the time that Dr. Norton had spent in Amherst County, home of Sweet Briar College as well as the Ambers' farm. From 1823-26, Norton visited his half-brother's Glen Ambler plantation - located between SBC and the Ambers property - several times and sold its tobacco at the Lynchburg market.
But their most prized find was an obscure 1928 account book of Norton's where he sketched the layout of his gardens and vineyards, and listed varieties of grapes he was cultivating. No fewer than two vines of the Norton were included, proving that the grape existed at least a couple of years before 1830, when it was sold in a nursery catalog.
The couple's article traces the ups and downs of Norton's life: the death of his father when he was three; his mother's subsequent marriage into the rich, prominent Ambler family of Jamestown, Va.; his graduation from the University of Pennsylvania medical school; and the devastating loss suffered when his first wife Elizabeth died - along with their baby - while giving birth.
It was Norton's subsequent depression and lingering melancholy that Rebecca Ambers believes at least indirectly led to the grape's discovery. "He was so miserable, he began turning a lot of his attention to the farm," she said. "He wasn't that into being a doctor anyway.
"The thought that this wonderful grape could come out of his personal tragedy is very inspiring."
In the Norton tradition, Clifford Ambers is excited about applying the couple's historical discoveries toward breeding dependable and satisfying wine grapes from native varieties.
"The idea, now that we have a basic understanding of the grape's origins," he said, "is to experiment with similar crosses. Can we create another Norton-style grape? Perhaps even a pink or white version of Norton? Our goal is to breed a new generation of hybrid grapes with excellent flavor and the hardiness and disease resistance of Virginia's native grapes."
- By Shannon Wells, SBC staff writer